FO1 Motor Triac S/C: Check Motor & Module connections
FO2 Motor jammed/Taco detached: Check Motor & Module connections
FO3 NTC S/C or O/C: Check Thermistor & Module connections
FO4 Pressure switch jammed or empty: Check Switch and Module
FO5 Pressure switch jammed on full or pump blocked: Check Switch and
Module
FO6 N/A
FO7 Heater relay stuck: Check the heater and Module connections
FO8 Heater relay stuck: Check Pressure switch, heater and Module
connections
FO9 Set up Error: Check Eeprom
F10 Pressure switch not sensing: Check switch and module connections
F11 Pump cannot be activated: Che ck pump, connections & wiring
F12 No Communication between cards: Check Module connections
F13 N/A
F14 N/A
F15 N/A
F16 N/A
F17 Door lock error: Check door, door lock & module connections
F18 Communications error (3 phase motor): replace power card.

You can find all your Washing Machine Spares Washing Machine Parts here.

Continuous flashing of the “start/cancel” indicator light and 1 flash of the “end of cycle” indicator light…..The machine does not fill with water.

Continuous flashing of the “start/cancel” indicator light and 2 flashes of the “end of cycle” indicator light…..The dishwasher will not drain.

Continuous flashing of the “start/cancel” indicator light and 3 flashes of the “end of cycle” indicator light…..Anti-flood device is activated.

Here you will find some Dishwasher Spares & Dishwasher Parts

Admiral Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes Failure Code Fault Code Description

F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC).
F1 Defective touch pad or clock (ERC) Replace touch pad or clock (ERC). Touch pad is a more common problem. Refer to F1 test at the top of this page for more information.
F2 Oven temperature too hot Replace relay board, if present, or oven temperature sensor (RTD). Check sensor harness.
F3 or F4 Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.
F5 Watchdog and hardware conflict Replace clock (ERC).
F7 Function key shorted or stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC).
F8 Analog / Digital problem Replace clock (ERC).
F9 Door latch Check door latch components.

Here you can find some Cooker Spares Cooker Parts

This post is a follow up to the washing machine maintenance wash post, and covers the cause of black marks and mildew that forms on your door seal.
This is usually caused by under dosing with your detergent or using the incorrect detergent for a long time without doing a maintenance wash, this will enable the bacteria to form in your machine, and the folds in the door seal are a good place as it remains damp there in the folds, good practice is to wipe your door seal dry and leave the door slightly open to allow air to circulate.
Also only using products like most of the liquids that don’t contain bleach will not remove all the bacteria in your machine.
If your door seal is not to bad cleaning it with a little bleach solution and a cloth may remove some of the marks, but if it is to bad then the only solution is to replace the door seal.
Here you can find some Hotpoint Washing Machine Door Seals

As the title suggests this is a maintenance wash for your washing machine, and most washing machine manufacturers and detergent manufacturers recommend this be done at least once every month. But this may differ from household to household depending on usage.
There are several other factors that will determine the need for a maintenance wash, ie the correct use of your detergent, powder,tablets,or liquid, will greatly reduce the need for a maintenance wash.
If you only use colour detergent liquid or liquid tablets or any other detergent that doesn’t contain bleach will increase the need for a maintenance wash.
Now down to the actual maintenance wash itself, this should be done with the machine empty NO CLOTHES, this is so the detergent cleans the washer of bacteria and other build ups instead of cleaning your clothes.
You will need a good detergent that contains bleach or a bleaching agent, not the liquid detergent or liquid tabs, it is the bleach in the detergent that kills the bacteria and this is the reason for the maintenance wash.
Please select a hot wash 60 or even better 90 degrees NOT a prewash, dose your machine as normal, do not overdose, and then just set the machine going and let it finish its cycle thats it done, you could always use a descaler but follow the instructions given with the descaler, you can find an example of a good Limescale And Detergent Remover here.

Bosch Loggixx Dishwasher codes

Common error codes on models with LED display:-

A or B = Aqua sensor fault.
C = No tacho pulses (i.e Motor runs at full speed 2,800rpm).
D = Short circuit triac to Circulation Pump (pump keeps running).
E = Water points switching error between top & bottom basket.
F = Filling error (time out 6 mins)
G = Water points error, triac fault on circuit board, short circuit.
H = Heating error (time out) Element, relay on module or pressure s/w.
K = NTC error
O = Safety level switching error

Bosch late SMS series D/w’s

E:01/E:02/E:03/E:04/E:05 all refer the Power Module fault *
E:06 = Door switch fault
E:07 = Dryer fan fault
E:08 = Heat Pump detects water level too low in tub
E:09 = Heating circuit fault
E:10 = Heat pump scaled up
E:11 = NTC fault
E:12 = Not used
E:13 = Hot water inlet temperature too high (over 75 degs)
E:14 = Reed switch flow sensor fault
E:15 = Water in base
E:16 = Inlet valve fault
E:17 = Water level to high check flow sensor
E:18 = Water level too low check valve
E:19 = Not used
E:20 = Winding resistance of circulating pump fault
E:21 = Circulating pump blockage
E:22 = Not used
E:23 = Winding resitance of drain pump fault
E:24 = Drain filters blocked
E:25 = Drain pump blocked, pump cover missing
E:26 = Water switch fault
E:27 = Not used
E:28 = Turbidity sensor fault

You can find all your spares for your Bosch Dishwasher Faults here

Ensure that the main selector switch is in the Off or O position.

Press and hold the Super Rinse and Rinse Hold buttons whilst selecting H on the selector knob, and continue to hold for five seconds.

The ‘Super Rinse’, ‘Rinse Hold’ and ‘Wash’ LED’s will now be flashing.

Press the Start/Cancel button for two seconds.

The ‘Rinse Hold’ LED will be lit and the ‘Super Rinse’ LED will be flashing.
The ‘Final Spin’ LED could be on or off at this stage.

Press the Rinse Hold button briefly.

The ‘Rinse Hold’ LED will be flashing & the ‘Super Rinse’ LED will be on steady to indicate the last error routine has been initiated.

Rotate the main programme selector knob slowly anti-clockwise to programme A

Slowly rotate the selector switch clockwise through four positions A to D inclusive, pausing briefly at each programme position. Starting with A make a note of the ‘Final Spin’ LED status. it will be on or off.

When the selector knob reaches D you will have a series of Ons and Offs . This 4 bit binary code should be recorded and checked against the error codes in the following table.

……………………………………………………..A………..B………….C………..D

No spin due to O.O.B……………………….on………off………..off………off

Start butt pressed with door open…….off……….on…………off……..off
or O/C interlock.

Failure to fill in allotted time……………..on……….on……….off……….off

Failure to pump out in time allowed……off………off………on……….off

No feedback from thermistor when……off………on……….on………off
heating.

Tacho error…………………………………….on……..on……….on………..off

No feedback from tacho…………………..off……….off………off……….on
Motor O/C

Motor triac short circuit…………………….on……….off……….off……….on
You can find your Hotpoint WMA Washing Machine Motor Carbon Brushes here.

F0. 10 flashes. Sensor Break (Only shown in test programme. Not visible to customer).

F1. Single flash. NTC Break. NTC open circuit/short circuit or ambient temperature less than 3 Celcius

F2. 2 Flashes. Water leakage. Floater switch LS6 in drip tray has switched.

F3. 3 Flashes. Heating system defect. Heater or relay on control board defect. Chack also cabling.

F4. 4 Flashes. Draining failure. Drain pump, control board OWI or water indicator defect.

F5. 5 Flashes. Sprayarm Blocked (not present on VBL version. On 1 digit display will show as F and flashing start led).

F6. 6 Flashes. Water valve (WV1) is switched on but flow meter (FM) senses no impulses (less than 10 impulses in 10 secs) and the water indicator (WI) is at a low level
Water Valve Closed. Water inlet hose blocked.
Water inlet valve (WV1) defective. Flow meter (FM) defective (leads to FM failure)

F7. 7 Flashes. Flow meter failure. Flow meter defect. Water inlet valve defect or water inlet hose blocked.

F8. 8 Flashes. Water level failure. Sieve strongly dirty or big amount of foam inside to less water.

F9. 9 Flashes. Continuously Water Inlet. Water inlet valve mechanically not closed or control board defect.

FA. 11 Flashes. OWI failure. Dirty OWI lens. OWI defect or control board defect. Check cabling.

FB. 12 Flashes. Motorised Diverter Valve

FC. 13 Flashes. Water Hardness Sensor Failure

A fault with no fault code indication = faulty module

These codes should cover the entire range of Whirlpool dishwashers.

Test Mode

Make sure the appliance is empty of water before running Diagnostics as it does not pump out before starting to fill and therefore you could overfill the appliance.
Open the door and set the program to the first program. (Normally rinse).
Turn the power off.
Press and hold the start button and while holding turn the power on.
After a little while the start button will flash, release the button.
Press the start button once and close the dishwasher door.
The machine will now run through a diagnostic routine.
Diagnostics should take around 20 mins..
The machine will stop during diagnostics if an error is found and will display the error code. If no error is found it will complete the diagnostics and end the programme.

To exit diagnostics at any time just press and hold the start button till the programme is cancelled.
You can find all your Whirlpool Dishwasher Parts here.

Not all vacuum cleaner belts are equal, long ago companies such as Hoover and Electrolux developed a Neoprene – Chloroprene compound when only the best quality would do, and manufactured their belts with this compound, but in todays society of bargain hunting and wanting the lowest price possible many belts were produced but they lack that quality and don’t last as long or maintain their shape, but now there are a quality alternative to the genuine belts at a fraction of their price with this very compound that was used by those companies years ago
An example for the YMH28950 can be found Tesco Vacuum Cleaner Belts
These belts will last longer than the cheaper alternatives and on the whole are as good as the genuine belts at a fraction of the cost.

Lamination of carbon brushes is a very important part of the manufacturing process, it is done to disperse the heat that is generated by the motor, and should prevent early burn out of your washing machine motor.
High spin speed machines on the better quality machines have a higher grade of carbon brushes fitted.
Laminated carbon brushes are the best quality carbon brushes for your motor, cheaper alternative grades of carbon can cause early wear and damage your motor they also last longer so cheap isn’t always the best way to go. These brushes are very close to the same grade of carbon used by the manufacturer, our own service engineers use these brushes as an alternative to the expensive genuine brushes.
You can find an example of laminated carbon brushes here Bosch Washing Machine Laminated Carbon Brushes